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Messages - CdRsKuLL

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1
General ChitChat / Re: Wanhao D9 Mk2 Waggster CR10Pro Firmware
« on: October 16, 2019, 03:48:52 PM »
Hey,

From what I understand the only difference between the mk1 and mk2 regarding firmware is the position of the BLTouch in relation to the nozzle.

You will know if you have flashed the touchscreen correctly as it looks completely different from the Wanhao one. If it looks the same then it didn't work.

Happy to help you update if you let me know which bit you're stuck on.

Steve

2
General ChitChat / Re: Wanhao D9 Mk2 Waggster CR10Pro Firmware
« on: October 04, 2019, 03:08:21 PM »
Thatís down to your gcode end script in your slicer.

You will need to add something like

G90
G0 X0 Y250

That should home the X and move the bed forward.

3
General ChitChat / Re: Wanhao D9 Mk2 Waggster CR10Pro Firmware
« on: October 04, 2019, 01:03:20 PM »
Hi, this is called safe homing and itís done to protect the sensor but also it measures the very centre of the bed as home.  In the past home is generally x0 y0.. but this would take the sensor off the bed.

No other reason really

4
General ChitChat / Re: Just saying Hi and Thanks
« on: September 24, 2019, 01:21:20 PM »
Hey,

Thanks for taking the time and joining :-) and for the kind comments.  I've had them ages but I think they came from HobbyKing, just do a search for hex screwdriver set and I think they cost about £10.

Take care,

Steve

5
General ChitChat / Re: Wanhao D9 Mk2 Waggster CR10Pro Firmware
« on: September 18, 2019, 07:59:05 AM »
Not yet.. but I do know Tiny have released a new one for the CR10 Pro.. so when I get a free night I'll spend a few hours porting it over again :-)  Will be next week mind as I'm a bit busy at the moment.


6
The X axis length is all based around the X steps.. so this all depends on the calibration of the STEPS.. the prusa is expecting a certain length and if your steps are slightly out.. so say it moves 250mm and should only move 240mm then it knows something is wrong.  When doing the calibration always make sure the zip ties are pointing down and that nothing is getting in the way of it running the whole X axis.  If you are running a different type of mount then you might not get the correct value for this.

You can check your steps by measuring say homing then making a mark 200mm to the right of the extruder, then moving it 200 in the menu and seeing if it goes to that point you marks, if it's less or more then you will need to alter your steps and test again.

Hope this helps :-) 

7
Hi, sorry for the delay i've been away for a few days.
 
You also need to change them in another file I think.. but it should home correctly.  Are you using the prusa extruder setup so the pinda is in the correct place?

The other file is XYZCalc.cpp

The points are in a different format, but easier to work out..
const int16_t xyzcal_point_xcoords[4] PROGMEM = {1200, 21700, 21700, 1200};
const int16_t xyzcal_point_ycoords[4] PROGMEM = {700, 700, 19900, 19900};

So X and Y cords..  first point is x is 1200 y is 700 .. so just change to suit.

Let me know how you get on. 








8
General ChitChat / Wanhao D9 Mk2 Waggster CR10Pro Firmware
« on: September 04, 2019, 05:09:36 AM »

9
General ChitChat / Re: Thank you!
« on: September 02, 2019, 11:33:45 AM »
Hey :-)

Thanks and you're most welcome.

10
Pretend Prusa Hardware / Re: Required Parts to build your own
« on: July 20, 2019, 06:20:51 AM »
Hi,

Just having a look now..

You need the 30x30 aluminum extrusion for the bed, you have the flat plate but no legs.
No need for any endstops, it's sensorless
Not sure if the mk3s filament sensor has a ball bearing also?
You need screws with the feeder really
Normally the motors have built-in leadscrews, but you can use the couplings.
Those leadscrews you have picked would require new X-axis carriage parts, I have designed these already so no probs.
Only need a small ptfe tube
Hotend looks ok, make sure its 24v
Power supply.. hmm you might need a prusa type one if you want the power out to work.

Motors look okay, but the lead wont fit the board, you need to be new leads.

Hope this helps :-)



11
Pretend Prusa Hardware / Re: Required Parts to build your own
« on: July 19, 2019, 01:07:06 PM »
Hey Jay,

Yeah sure post away :-)

Steve

12
General ChitChat / Steadytech Mini 3D Printer Review
« on: July 09, 2019, 02:39:40 AM »
Just completed and uploaded my review of the Steadytech Pro X Printer.


13
General ChitChat / Wanhao D9 Mk2 Modifications
« on: July 07, 2019, 02:11:32 AM »

14
Pretend Prusa Hardware / Re: Original Mk2s with SKR v1.3
« on: July 04, 2019, 09:11:20 AM »
Seems you are well on with it now. :-)  I've not played with 32bit boards yet... fingers crossed for you.

15
Pretend Prusa Hardware / Re: Original Mk2s with SKR v1.3
« on: July 03, 2019, 01:38:33 PM »
Hi Steve,

It shouldn't be that hard as long as you can wire it up right.  I would start by downloading the source firmware for the prusa mk2 and writing down the values in the configuration file.. things like steps / motor direction etc.. That should at least get you close.  I'm not familiar with that board but have played with Marlin 2.0

So.. go to - https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/tree/MK3/Firmware/variants

Just click on which version you have and then open up marlin 2.0 on another screen and just copy values over working down.

You will need to enable the pinda probe, so fixed probe.. then the offset etc. 

Let me know how you get one.

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